Rachel Laudan

More on Maize, Migration, etc

OK, I’ll continue by addressing the concerns raised by Rajagopal and Steve (thanks both of you).   If this repeats things I’ve said lots of times before, I apologize.

Well, by the 1990s, it was becoming clear that the ejido system was not working as planned.

Now, after reforms, it is possible (if an incredible hassle) for campesinos (peasants) to get title to their land and to sell it.  This is really important in a country where until recently loans, if they were to be had at all, came at interest rates of 50% plus.  It is one of the few ways the rural poor can raise capital for everything from medical expenses to the costs of a coyote (smuggler of humans) to take them across the border into the US to a pick up truck that allows them to take a dozen family members to work as bricklayers on a construction project (the main alternative work for campesinos).

But what had happened from the 1930s on was that farming in Mexico ran along two tracks.  There were all these tiny farmers producing just enough for themselves and a small sale to the market.  And there were the big farmers who had tractors and irrigation wells and all the apparatus of modern farming.

How come there were big farmers if there had been land reform?  Well the reform was spotty.  Some large farmers were ruined when their lands were turned into ejidos–I know many, many Mexican families who lost everything.  But others hung on.  And then somehow or other much of the better land got consolidated and was run as large farms.  All a bit murky wouldn’t you say?

So it is my belief, though I need to get figures for this, that most of the trucks you see lined up at Maseca plants (that is the plants turning corn in to masa harina) are bringing in maize from big farms.

Now, and this is really important, big farms in Mexico grow white corn not yellow corn.  The maize that is imported from the US is yellow corn.  Mexicans think this is unfit for human consumption.  So in fact the campesinos are competing against big Mexican farmers with all their economies of scale, not against US farmers.

So what’s that yellow maize doing in Mexico?  It’s being used to make sweeteners.  And it’s being fed to hogs and chicken.

And that means that the diet of campesinos has been transformed in the last fifteen years.  They eat meat.   It’s the custom here that any full-time household employee gets their main meal.  When I arrived here about fifteen years ago, they would fix beans and tortillas and perhaps an egg or a can of tuna.  Now they expect a chicken leg or a bistek or ground beef.  Mothers have gone from a newly-cheap chicken once a week to some kind of meat daily.

OK, OK, we have Mark Bittman (an American cookbook author typical of current trends) urging Americans to go to a grain and vegetable diet.  But really, this has been a boon in Mexico in my opinion.  Children grow tall and strong.  An American friend who visited one of Mexico’s poorer regions, Oaxaca, where this shift has not occurred, said how much better he liked our more prosperous area.   “In Oaxaca,” he said “there are a lot of very short people.  And there’s only one reason for a lot of very short people.”

So, bottom line.  What about NAFTA (the North American Free Trade Agreement) and Mexican agriculture?  So far as I can see it goes like this.  For big farmers it’s a huge boon, a huge new export market.   In fact, in our part of the world, farmers are growing for the American fruit and vegetable market.  If they are to use irrigation water, this brings a good return.

For campesinos, well, being a campesino is not a great way to live.  I just can’t go along with the huge numbers of Mexican academics (and city folk elsewhere) who believe that the campesino should be kept on the land no matter what.

Later, subsidies on tortillas and the pandering to the cities, maize biodiversity, and environmental impacts.

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8 thoughts on “More on Maize, Migration, etc

  1. Tangled Noodle

    I followed your link from Mariana’s (History of Greek Food) site and I’m positive that your site will be a wonderful resource for me. The current posts on maize and migration are particularly interesting – I recently wrote a short paper on maize and Malawian national identity for a class entitled “Politics of Eating”. I look forward to reading through your blog more thoroughly!

    1. Rachel Laudan

      Well, in some sense the ejidos were supposed to be cooperatives. Mexican agricultural policy is such a tangled question and so tied up with ideology it’s really hard to get straight about it.

  2. Tangled Noodle

    Rachel, thank you! The paper was entitled “Hunger in Abundance” and discussed the impact of the monoculture of maize on Malawian food security. Even during periods of huge surplus (as in the past 2 years), the nation experiences chronic malnutrition and pockets of starvation due in large part to its overwhelming reliance on this single crop (maize occupies 90% of Malawi’s cultivated land and represents 54% of total daily calorie intake of the average citizen). The tragic irony is that maize as a staple food (in the form of a porridge called nsima) has a very recent history when former dictator Banda encouraged its widespread cultivation and consumption in the 1960s. In the space of about 50 years, nsima has entered national lore as “food of our ancestors” (per James McCann in “Maize and Grace”) and even in the face of starvation, Malawians have resisted other substitute foodstuff. There was more but this section is meant only for ‘comments’, not entire expositions!

    Also, I saw that you co-authored at least one paper with Dr. Jeffrey Pilcher – he is now teaching at the University of Minnesota (currently on sabbatical) and I consider him a mentor!

    1. Rachel Laudan

      Tangled Noodle (I feel a bit silly not being able to honor you with your real name), thanks so much for contributing this interesting case. A single staple is always a bad idea, one reason why I think regional (or global) links are so important. And your point that a new food can be taken as ancient and the food of our ancestors within a generation or so is a really important one. For most people traditional ingredients or dishes are those of the grandmother. That means about 50 years old! The world food scene really has changed that rapidly in many places.

      Yes, I wrote a paper with Jeff a few years ago. He must be a great mentor to have.

  3. Paola Paska

    My apologies! I’ve been using my online alter ego so much that I’ve even started referring to my husband as “Mr. Noodle”. I do consider myself very fortunate to have Profs. Pilcher and Donna Gabaccia at UMN. Thank you for your feedback!

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