Dining with the Dead

Dining with the Dead

[A slightly edited version of a piece I originally published on October 31st, 2015] Every year of the fifteen I lived in Mexico I enjoyed seeing graves decorated with flowers,…

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Why Didn’t the Spanish Dry-Cure Ham in Mexico?

It was not for want of trying, I’m pretty sure. Instead it was for want of a suitable climate. Dry curing ham requires humid winters with temperatures that hover above…

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Variety, Discrimination, and Mexican Breads

Variety, Discrimination, and Mexican Breads

For a long time I’ve been interested in how perceptions of variety in food have shifted as countries have become more prosperous. In particular, variety comes to be seen as…

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