Over at Slate, Farhad Manjoo, their technology columnist, takes on the question of butter technology.
My homemade butter was delicious, just about the best butter I’d ever tasted. (I am an expert on the taste of butter; ask my wife or my doctor.) But it was also extremely expensive—I’d spent nearly $10 in high-end cream to make about a pound of butter, which is about $4 more than I’d have spent to buy very nice butter made from the same fancy dairy that had produced my cream. For doing the work myself, I’d paid 67 percent more. And even if I’d bought cheaper cream, I couldn’t have come close to matching the price (not to mention the convenience) of store-bought butter.
So off he goes on a quest to understand American butter making and why, in spite of all the efforts (and patents) for better butter churns, it took so long to make a better butter churn.
Now I love anyone who’s prepared to admit that there’s more to technology than IT. I love anyone who embraces new cooking and processing techniques. And the photographs he has dug up are pretty nice too.
But in the end, his story is Hamlet without the prince. His denouement is that in the early 1900s, smaller hand cranked churns replaced big, hand plunged churns. Well, good. They did speed up churning and thus reduce the very considerable labor.
But not by all that much. I used to watch my grandmother churning butter in her Blow Butter Churn in the 1950s. It was a long, laborious process.
She did because she liked the quality of the cream from the house cow (a Guernsey that gave small amounts of high fat milk) better than the quality from the dairy cows (Friesians who produced lots of relatively low-fat milk).
What really reduced the labor was the power-driven mechanical churn that substituted fossils fuels for human labor.
The cream is placed in a large, mechanical churn usually made of aluminum. Some of these industrial-sized churns can make 1,500-5,000 pounds (681-2270 kg) of butter at a time. When the churn is activated, it tumbles the cream, much like the motion of a clothes dryer, while a worker watches the process through a small glass window on the churn. After about 45 minutes, small granules of butter begin to form, and the butter and buttermilk are separated. Salt is added, and the mixture is churned further. When this process is completed, a stainless steel mobile device sometimes called a “boat” is placed adjacent to the opening of the mechanical churn. The door of the churn is opened, and the butter begins to spill out into the boat; activating the churn removes the rest.
Power driven industrial churns, not better hand churns, were the breakthrough that makes modern butter affordable.