200 Years of Latin American Culinary Nationalism

In a couple of weeks, I’m off to what should be a really interesting conference on nationalism and cuisine in Latin America. For the first time ever, historians and anthropologists…

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Why jamon serrano is not a cured meat (according to the USDA)

By arbitrarily removing salt and sugar from their rightful place as chemical compounds, the USDA eliminates hundreds of products that are traditionally cured with one or both of these chemicals. So, in the obfuscating terminology of…

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What a Catalan friend offers for dinner

Exqueixada, a dish of shredded salt cod was the star of the first course.  It’s a Catalán classic, available ready prepared in the market, though our friend Jordi dismissed the…

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