American Thanksgiving as a republican meal, a repudiation of the high cuisine of monarchies

For a national meal, Thanksgiving is really rather extraordinary. It is not a public event, it is not showy, it is a home-cooked meal of ordinary ingredients shared by the…

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The Food Writer that was Johan Mathieson

Sidney Mintz, the anthropologist and author of Sweetness and Power, sent Johan notes about books.  Maida Heatter, cookbook author and ‘legend of desserts,’ sent him batches of cookies. John Thorne,…

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Why Didn’t the Spanish Dry-Cure Ham in Mexico?

It was not for want of trying, I’m pretty sure. Instead it was for want of a suitable climate. Dry curing ham requires humid winters with temperatures that hover above…

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