Goulash, Romantic Nationalism, and Eszter Kisbán
It’s a funny feeling when you have a sense of knowing someone when you have never met them and read only a few of their works. That’s the case with…
Read moreServants in the Kitchen: Now You See Them, Now You Don’t
Some years ago, Saveur magazine, which was running a series on kitchens, asked to include my kitchen in Mexico. I wrote and re-wrote a short piece and they sent a…
Read moreThe Indispensable Culinary Middlemen and Women
“I think we’ll use your handout in our staff training sessions,” said one of Rick Bayless’ team, without so much as a “by your leave.” Or a “may we?” “Hmm,”…
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