Did Elizabeth David Test Recipes? Eat Your Words, Rachel

Some time ago, writing about Elizabeth David and Julia Child, I cheerfully said of the former “I would bet a good bit that she had never cooked most of those…

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The Cow’s Nest Cookbook: (1) Super Simple Walnut Ice Cream

The Cow’s Nest Cookbook: (1) Super Simple Walnut Ice Cream

A couple of weeks ago I found myself contributing to a Twitter discussion in which Dan Barber described his rapturous first encounter with raw milk. “Non homog nicer than homog…

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Pure and Simple? Cheese and Ghee

Almost exactly a hundred years, in 1917, in Calcutta in India a controversy flared up about ghee (clarified butter). There ghee is no ordinary foodstuff.  It is a wondrous golden…

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