“The Sweet Ones Become Pomegranate Sherbet”

In her informative and delightful book, Sufi Cuisine (2005), Nevin Halici, one of Turkey’s leading culinary historians, gives a recipe for pomegranate sherbet: a cup of freshly squeezed juice, 2/3 cup sugar, and 3-1/3 cups of water. Apart from her useful advice to to “roll an uncut fresh pomegrante underfoot on the floor” [...]

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Mole Once More: The Class Issue

One objection that comes up time and again when people discuss my theory about the Islamic origins of mole poblano is this: how come, if mole was introduced by the Spaniards, it is now the celebration dish in small villages all over Mexico?
Perfectly good question. And I think there is an answer to this [...]

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Books that Shed Light: Eaton on Islam in Bengal

In thinking about Islamic culinary traditions in India, one of the books I’ve found most useful is Richard Eaton’s The Rise of Islam and the Bengal Frontier 1204-1760 (University of California Press, 1994). OK, it’s not about the courts of the Sultans or the Mughals. OK, it hardly mentions food. But it [...]

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