Agua Fresca 6: Pungent, Spicy Limonadas

About time for another agua fresca. Or a couple actually, based on that old staple limonada but spiced up. In Mexico, limonada is always made with what in the United States are called Key Limes, that is small limes about half the size of a lemon with lots of seeds. These cost nothing [...]

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Why Have We Forgotten the Servants? A Hole in Our Understanding of Food: Part I

In cookbooks, in food history, in writing about food in general servants are an embarrassment, a topic we want to sweep under the rug. We pussyfoot around the very mention of the word “servant.” It’s an embarrassment, it’s politically incorrect.
Well, we’ve got to get over that attitude. If we want to understand food today or [...]

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Semitas in California (and Other Semita Matters)

I’ve been pursuing the semita trail for the last several years and a very interesting trail it is too. Breads called semita or cemita pop up all over Latin America and, I think, can be traced back to the Mediterranean, probably North Africa. Originally they were the humblest of breads, breads made from [...]

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