The Ensaimada Trail

For a couple of years, I’ve been interested in the ensaimada (the en-larded), a sweet bread associated with Mallorca and Minorca in Spain that also crops up in the Philippines.
This afternoon, trotting into a confitería in Buenos Aires, in search of sweet things for my husband, I spotted, lo and behold, a shelf of ensaimadas. [...]

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Bakers, Anarchists, and Nineteenth-Century Argentina

Every so often I find my food historian hairs standing on end. This week was one of those times. The unlikely source was the Summer/Autumn 2008 issue of Time Out Buenos Aires for Visitors. Now I’ve loved Time Out since I first encountered it as a bit of humble newsprint during my student [...]

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Semitas in California (and Other Semita Matters)

I’ve been pursuing the semita trail for the last several years and a very interesting trail it is too. Breads called semita or cemita pop up all over Latin America and, I think, can be traced back to the Mediterranean, probably North Africa. Originally they were the humblest of breads, breads made from [...]

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