Hurrah. Raisins and other dried fruit have found a champion in Russ Parsons of the LA Times.
Truly, dried fruit has become the ingredient that dare not speak its name. What’s weirdest about that is all the really good cooks I know love dried fruit. On Facebook recently, cookbook author Maria Speck her “Ancient Grains” is terrific polled colleagues about which dried fruits they had in their pantries. I was feeling pretty proud: dark and golden raisins, currants, apricots, cranberries, sour cherries, figs and prunes yes, I call them prunes, and proudly!.
via Russ Parsons The California Cook: Dried fruit deserves a chance. Particularly this time of year, when raisins and other dried fruits can come to the rescue in both savory dishes and desserts. – latimes.com. 01/27/2014.
I like to think my Christmas posting about raisins had something to do with this in an indirect way, as Maria Speck, whom Russ cites, wrote that she wished she could again taste the wonderful raisins of her Greek youth.
In fact, quite a few friends weighed in on raisins.
Vikram Doctor reminded me that Helen Saberi describes Afghan drying houses and offers a number of recipes with raisins in her classic Afghan Food and Cookery.
Katy Biggs came up with photographs showing the famous raisins of Turfan on the old Silk Roads being sold by Uighyars in Shanghai and Taipei.
Turkey emerged as a place where they are still honored. Here’s Robyn Eckhardt of the must-follow Eating Asia blog.
In late Sept, while driving in SE Turkey, we passed hectares of fruit laid out to dry in the sun and stopped to by raisins from a roadside stand. The grapes were dried, but not fully; they were pliable and only partly chewy and tasted so intense, like raisin jam — so far from the raisins we grew up with (Sun Maid!) that it feels wrong to call the two foods by the same name.
Iran, though, appears to be the center of raisin excellence, not surprising given the long, long history of grape cultivation there. Naomi Duguid spoke of the excellent ones she had tasted on her trip there late last year. Faye Levy recommended buying them from Persian stores (and also polled her FB readers about dried fruit in their pantries). And so I’ll give the word to Sally Butcher who runs a Persian store, Persepolis, in London.
We import and sell vast quantities of dried fruit, and sales are on the increase.
I suspect that the US and UK eating public differ on this. I think more of my shop customers than ever before actually made their own mincemeat and puds this Christmas.
Dried fruit is a popular snack for kids, gets used in muesli, and with the increasing interest in Middle Eastern cuisine it is being used in savoury food more and more.
The Middle Eastern sultanas and raisins we import are definitely superior in flavour. In addition, the US stuff that reaches these shores is usually sold through supermarkets, and is thus in the food chain for a worryingly long period of time. The stuff that is in ethnic shops usually comes through smaller suppliers (such as us) and is invariably fresher.
The importance of dried fruit in Central Asia cannot be understated: my favourite usage therein is in the preparation of ‘haft miweh’L: 7 fruits (or nuts) which are prepared and consumed symbolically at the time of Nowrooz.
So two things to consider.
First, like all preserved foods raisins have a character all their own, quite distinct from the grapes from which they are made. As Adam Balic pointed out since raisins are now used so infrequently, cooks have lost the ability to discriminate between good and bad ones. Time to resuscitate that discriminating judgment.
Second, in doing so, it’s worth searching out raisins from the raisin heartland that stretches from Spain (and its old colony Argentina) through Greece, Turkey, Persia, the core of the core of grape growing, and out to Afghanistan and Central Asia.
And now I’m collecting dishes in which raisins really shine.