Comments on: The Ensaimada Trail: Backing up for Review http://www.rachellaudan.com/2008/09/the-ensaimada-trail-backing-up-for-review.html A Historian's Take on Food and Food Politics Wed, 08 Feb 2012 11:28:25 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Adam Balic http://www.rachellaudan.com/2008/09/the-ensaimada-trail-backing-up-for-review.html/comment-page-1#comment-12043 Adam Balic Tue, 17 Feb 2009 02:55:23 +0000 http://www.rachellaudan.com/?p=567#comment-12043 Maybe, I will look into it (although my Spanish is non existent). There are some Catalan recipes in the Italian cookbooks of this period, which is thought to be due to the influence of the Aragonese kingdom of Naples. Scappi also gives recipes for syringed fritters, which have a similar layout to the Spanish recipes, so I wonder if there was quite a bit of direct exchange going on. Maybe, I will look into it (although my Spanish is non existent). There are some Catalan recipes in the Italian cookbooks of this period, which is thought to be due to the influence of the Aragonese kingdom of Naples.

Scappi also gives recipes for syringed fritters, which have a similar layout to the Spanish recipes, so I wonder if there was quite a bit of direct exchange going on.

]]> By: Rachel Laudan http://www.rachellaudan.com/2008/09/the-ensaimada-trail-backing-up-for-review.html/comment-page-1#comment-12026 Rachel Laudan Tue, 17 Feb 2009 01:50:53 +0000 http://www.rachellaudan.com/?p=567#comment-12026 Hmm. Really interesting. Opens up all kinds of new perspectives. I wonder if there is anything in the 17th century Spanish cookbooks. Motiño is more north east Spain. Catalan cookbooks. Hmm. Really interesting. Opens up all kinds of new perspectives. I wonder if there is anything in the 17th century Spanish cookbooks. Motiño is more north east Spain. Catalan cookbooks.

]]> By: Adam Balic http://www.rachellaudan.com/2008/09/the-ensaimada-trail-backing-up-for-review.html/comment-page-1#comment-10978 Adam Balic Sat, 14 Feb 2009 00:03:05 +0000 http://www.rachellaudan.com/?p=567#comment-10978 Found some interesting 16th century Italian recipes which are either the same thing as ensaimada or closely related. In Bartolomeo Scappi's "Opera" there are numerous recipes for "Tortiglione", these are made in the same way (leaven dough rolled out thinly, greased with butter or lard, rolled, then twisted) as ensaimada, with various fillings (currants, dates raisins, spice, sygar; sausage meat/force meat; hard boiled egg yolks, pinenuts, raisins, bone marrow/butter). They were either cooked alone in a tort pan (often on a sheet of pastry) or smaller versions were used to garnish the edge of pies (many pies recipes used this garnish). The other place where these recipes crops up are in Messisbugo's Neapolitan recipe collection. So a possible Spanish connection there. My guess would be that part of the story is similar to that of churro's, a widely made upperclass recipe became very localised, then relatively recently it became more widely recognised and popular and seen as a traditional regional dish. Found some interesting 16th century Italian recipes which are either the same thing as ensaimada or closely related. In Bartolomeo Scappi’s “Opera” there are numerous recipes for “Tortiglione”, these are made in the same way (leaven dough rolled out thinly, greased with butter or lard, rolled, then twisted) as ensaimada, with various fillings (currants, dates raisins, spice, sygar; sausage meat/force meat; hard boiled egg yolks, pinenuts, raisins, bone marrow/butter).

They were either cooked alone in a tort pan (often on a sheet of pastry) or smaller versions were used to garnish the edge of pies (many pies recipes used this garnish).

The other place where these recipes crops up are in Messisbugo’s Neapolitan recipe collection. So a possible Spanish connection there.

My guess would be that part of the story is similar to that of churro’s, a widely made upperclass recipe became very localised, then relatively recently it became more widely recognised and popular and seen as a traditional regional dish.

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