Rachel Laudan

Or, more accurately, Italo-porteño cuisine, the Italian cuisine of Buenos Aires. Just consider the following: Argentine cuisine is “Italian” cuisine if you leave aside empanadas (pasties) and parilla (grilled meats) and some regional cuisines. Pasta and pizza are the everyday dishes for everybody The cheeses of Argentina are overwhelmingly of Italian ancestry The charcuterie of [...]

When English speakers began to try “authentic” Indian recipes in their own houses in the 1970s and 80s, the recipes they tried came from wealthy households with servants. The same is true of other foreign cuisines. Just crack open any of the fine cookbooks that have introduced English-speakers to “ethnic” cuisines and read them carefully. [...]

I’m posting this because I was clearing out my files and throwing away much that I had collected during my cheese-making phase. That is now over, partly because I’ve learned what I wanted to know about cheese-making, partly because it’s becoming increasingly possible to buy reasonably good-quality hard cheeses, a staple for a northern European [...]